Beartooth Climbing

Doublebook Dome

Doublebook Dome, Central S-Face climbs

Dean Arthun on Beginners One

Playing on Double Book Dome

Doublebook Dome

Doublebook Dome features (long) one-pitch routes on excellent rock. Approach from the road is short. Most climbs are bolted and lead to double chain anchors. Although, additional protection (mostly small) is advised. An ideal crag for groups and climbing schools.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Alpine Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge or Columbus take Highway 78 to Roscoe. Follow East Rosebud Road south. After about 10miles you enter Custer National Forest. Continue on to where the road crosses East Rosebud Creek and turns to gravel again. Park at first turnout to the left after crossing the bridge. The Ramp is visible right above on the west side. There is a faint trail leading to the bottom of the cliff in less than 30min.

Route Descriptions:

No-one was able to give me route names for the climbs on Doublbook Dome. So I named them myself. If you happen to know any original route names please let me know. Climbs are described from left to right.

Far left, lower 5th grade, traditional: On the far left end where the compact rock breaks up into sections are some lower 5th class tradidional routes. They are good training for Granite Peak.

Sole Fusion, 5.11a, bolted: Sole fusion is on the slab left of the left dihedral (just out of the route picture). Follow the bolts and hope that your shoes stay put. Midways you find a unique granite "stalactite" that helps you get over an overhang.

Over The Book, 5.8, 10 bolts: Ascend the wall between the two dihedrals to triple bolt anchor on top.

The Book, 5.7, traditional: Follow the main dihedral to the top. The crux is the traverse right half way up. An Alternative climbs cracks further right to meet the original rout after the traverse.

Short Cut, 5.12b, toprope:Start The Book and tackle the left traverse/overhang midway up. Finish as for Over The Book. This is a toprope endeavor for most of us mortal climbers. Be careful with your rope positioning. There are some nasty sharp edges right above the crux.

Beginners 1, 5.7, 6 bolts: The leftmost bolted line on the face. Take some small nuts and cams. Double bolt anchors on top.

Beginners 2, 5.9, 7 bolts and gear: The middle bolted line on the face. Cruxes are at the 3rd bolt and after the 4th bolt protected by gear. Take a selection of small nuts and cams. Double bolt anchors on top.

Not For Beginners, 5.10d, bolts and gear: The the right bolted line on the face. Crux is not grabbing the 4th bolt. Take some small nuts and cams. Double bolt anchors shared with Beginners 2.

Girdle, 5.9, traditional: Start to the right of the last route at a crack. The crack leads you up and left crossing the other routes all the way to the dihedral of The Book. From here you can follow it further over a little overhang or take the easier way out via The Book finish.

Descent:

Easiest descent is rappeling from one of the chain anchors. You need a double rope for the 150 foot rappel. An alternative is to walk up left (towards the hill side) until you can walk off to the left and back to the base.

First Ascent:

Most routes have been developed by local climbing schools. First ascents are not known.