Beartooth Climbing

View from the top of Rosina

The Ramp on Rosina Tower

Upper part of Rosina's Other Side. The route follows the dihedral system left of the center.

Rosina Tower (aka The 4th Sister)

The Ramp, 5.8, 5 pitches
Rosina's Other Side, 5.10d, 3 pitches

Rosina Tower is mostly known for The Ramp, an East Rosebud Classic. The Ramp offers excellent moderate crack and face climbing on solid gneiss. Difficult sections are short. Most of the climb is easier than the difficulties indicated per pitch. Enjoy a sunny day with nice views of East Rosebud Lake and the Beartooth Mountains. Rosina's Other Side tells a different story: Steep cracks with a dicey traverse at the very top.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Alpine Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge or Columbus take Highway 78 to Roscoe. Follow East Rosebud Road south. After about 10miles you enter Custer National Forest. Continue on to where the road crosses East Rosebud Creek and turns to gravel again. Park at 2 turnout to the left after crossing the bridge. end of road. The Ramp is visible right above on the west side. Scramble up the glacier polished rock apron and continue on to the bottom of the cliff in about 45 min. The climb starts on top of a little rock outcop at a broken snag. For the Other Side move around to the cliffs SW side and scramble up the gully until you are directly under the headwall. The climb starts on the right side of a goat cave at a dead tree.

Route Descriptions:

The Ramp: Climb up a crack right above the snag. Pass by a bush to reach the crux hand crag. It was rated 5.7 originally. 5.8 seemed more appropriate to me. In any case, the difficult section is just a few feet. If you are scared of this section you can climb up cracks and slabs to the right of the original route and move back above the crux (5.6 if you find the weaknesses right). The route continues up the crack until you reach a small ledge 120 feet from the start. Pitch 2 follows the crack system onto a large pedestal like ledge to the left (120 ft, 5.6). Face climb the left side of the leaning wall and move to the right on top to reach another ledge with a small conifer (160 ft, 5.5). From here straight up, past a dead tree to the ledge under the big overhanging dihedral (180 ft, 5.6). For the final pitch go straight up the dihedral to the top of the cliff (120 ft).The first moves into it are the second crux of the climb. Actually it is just one hard move. Call it 5.7 or 5.8.

Rosina's Other Side: Go up at the right side of a cave behind a dead tree until ledges allow you to traverse left and up (short 5.9, then easy) about 50 feet. An easy crack leads up to a comfortable belay ledge. From here follow a flake up and right (5.10a) to gain the beginning of a finger/hand crack. Follow this crack up to a belay ledge with ring anchors (5.10b). It is easier to move over to the right for the first section of the crack and then back. The third pitch follows the crack further, then moves into the left wall to another ledge. From here continue up the crack until it ends and traverse right into the final dihedral (5.10d) that leads to anchors on top of the cliff.

Descent:

From the top you can climb/scramble down to the right (north). Go to the right and up a little further until you reach the upper part of the gully between Rosina and the next rock outcrop to the north. Traverse on and scramble down that outcrop. about half way down you can traverse back into the gully and down it to the bottom of Rosina Tower. This descent involves lower 5th class climbing or one or two short rappels. If you have double ropes you can rappel the SW-Face (Rosina's Other Side) into the gully on the south side of the cliff.

First Ascent:

The Ramp: Unknown

Rosina's Other Side: Frank Annighofer, Annette Lavalette, August 2011

The Ramp on Rosina Tower

Rosina's Other Side