Beartooth Climbing

Line of Constant Sorrow as seen from the approach

Snow Creek with the Doublets on the upper left

Lower Doublet

W-Buttress, Line of Constant Sorrow, 12 pitches, 5.12-/C1

The Lower Doublet has seen a lot of attempts but few sucesses. Large parts of the SW side, the side you see from Snow Creek trail, have rather poor rock. The part to the left of the obvious crack/dihedral is better but steeper and more compact too. The Line of Constant Sorrow is on this 1500 foot high wall section.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Sylvan Peak Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge or Columbus take Highway 78 to Roscoe. Follow East Rosebud Road south. Follow it all the way to East Rosebud Lake. Take the trail south towards Cooke City. After about 45min you reach a bridge. Leave the trail to the left. You see the cliffs of the Doublets right above you. Scramble up staying north of the creek and heading for the base of the lower (left) Doublet.

Route Description:

description by Max Bechdel

Bring some replacement webbing, two 70m ropes (for 2 pitch rappels), single set of nuts, cams: doubles from very small to 2”, and singles to to 4”.

p1 (5.10-): step onto a boulder, climb up to ledge, move up into dihedral, climb dihedral to where it ends at mini roof, traverse left then up into bottom big black alcove. bolted belay.

p2 (5.10-): climb up black alcove to offwidth roof, step right onto face, make some moves on face and then step back left into the crack, continue up to broken ledges, climb up ledges trending right, work your way up to another set of ledges up and right. bolted belay.

p3 (5.9pg-13): move up and slightly right onto run out face with easy climbing. keep going up until you hit some nice ledges. bolted belay.

p4 (5.9r): the slab-lantic pitch. from belay take the ledge to the left and climb up a 5.9 section, move onto easier climbing that takes you all over this fun slab to a small dihedral going up the main face. bolted belay.

p5 (5.12d?): this pitch has not gone free, aid it’s about C1. anyway, go up dihedral to wider section and pull bulge, move straight up to small roof that protects with small cams, pull this and keep going through a wide flared crack with small gear deep inside it, up to an alcove. 1 bolt + gear belay.

p6 (5.12a): small gear and really cool moves take you up and slightly right, clip a piton, move up to black crack/ledge system that is running across the whole west face. bolted belay.

p7 (5.10+): cool moves on some small gear up crack until it seams out at a decent stance, move left on face to dihedral, climb up ~10’ and then move back right where crack goes right back to face, move up hand crack to small but good ledge. gear anchor.

p8 (5.11+): climb up crack through bulge, crack slants right through another steep section, move up from here and do some face climbing up and left to dihedral, take this up to good ledge system. bolted belay.

p9: traverse to the left to the arete of the lower doublet, the ledges get really nice here. trad anchor (you can sling huge boulder with rope).

p10 (5.9): pick whatever line you want here, going up the corner of the north and west faces to another good ledge. bolted belay.

p11 (5.10+): much harder when wet. climb up easy terrain into the black dihedral, pull through wide section to amazing fingers section. go over roof and take easy terrain to good ledges. bolted belay.

p12 (5th class): scramble to top, ~300 feet.

Descent:

description by Max Bechdel

two 70m ropes will let you rap the whole route. rap pitches 10 and 11 individually. do the traverse pitch back to climbers right. from here you can rap two pitches at a time all the way down. remember when rapping p4 & p3 to move down and climbers right to make it to p2’s anchor.

First Ascent:

Max Bechdel, Ian Cavanaugh, Artley Goodhart, June 14-16, 2013.