Beartooth Climbing

Upper Doublet, W-Buttress and SW-Wall

Upper Doublet, W-Buttress and Time Trip

Upper Doublet

W-Buttress, Abbey-Shock, 13 (long) pitches, 5.11a
SW-Wall, Time Trip, 17 pitches, 5.11

The Upper Doublet is one of the highest continuous granite/gneiss walls in the Beartooth Wilderness and offers exposed climbing with spectacular views high above East Rosebud Lake. Be prepared for a long day or more on these routes. There are more routes and variations on this wall. Desrciptions can be found in Ron Brunckhorst's guide book.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Sylvan Peak Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge or Columbus take Highway 78 to Roscoe. Follow East Rosebud Road south. Follow it all the way to East Rosebud Lake. Take the trail south towards Cooke City. After about 45min you reach a bridge. Leave the trail to the left. You see the cliffs of the Doublets right above you. Scramble up staying north of the creek and heading for the lower left end of the Upper (right) Doublet. You will get to the Mushroom Boulder and a cave under a large block a little higher in about 2h. The cave is an excellent bivy spot. To reach the climbs scramble up the gully between the Doublets until you can get onto a large ledge to the right. Follow this to the right. Abbey-Shock starts at the center of the left most buttress. For the Direct Start of Time-Trip follow the ledge around the corner until you are directly under a huge dihedral about 500 feet above the ledge.

Route Description:

See topo. The SW-Buttress starts about in the lower center of the photograph and moves over to the left to the edge (where light and shadow meet) for the upper half. Note that the first couple of pitches are hidden on the photo. Time trip is located about in the center of the visible wall. Our start is further to the right hidden by the cliff in the foreground. It meets the original Time Trip where a ledge system interrupts the steep wall at about half height. The direct start is much easier and less scary than the original.

Descent:

You can rapel either one of the routes. Please give me a call if you do so I can get your anchors. Otherwise follow the ridge onto Sylvan Peak Plateau. Hiking south and up you get to a point where you can walk down meadows to the right until you get to a creek. (If you head down right to early it will get steep !) Follow the creek down to Snow Lakes and further down to the scree fields under the cliff.

First Ascent:

West Buttress: Michael Abbey, Klas Schock, June 1999

Time Trip: First ascent: Pat Callis et al., 1971/72; first free ascent: Pat Callis, Meg Hall, Mike Carey, May 1998; direct start: Frank Annighofer, Bill Davey, August 2010