Beartooth Climbing

Virginia's Cold Shoulder and upper part of SW-Face

Virginia Tower

Virginia, SW-Face, 7 pitches, 5.11a

Virginia Tower (aka Tower of Incubus)

SW-Face, 7 pitches, 5.11a
Virginia's Cold Shoulder: 2 pitch routes, 5.8-5.11

Virginia is the right most tower of the Three Sisters. Her SW-side offers the best climbing. There is a mix of multiple pitch traditional and sport climbing on solid rock. Climbing on Virginia feels less steep and exposed than on Katherine, the middle sister.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Alpine Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge or Columbus take Highway 78 to Roscoe. Follow East Rosebud Road south. After about 10miles you enter Custer National Forest. Continue on to where the road crosses East Rosebud Creek. Turn right after the bridge and park at end of road. The Three Sisters (from south: Esther, Katherine, and Virginia) are above on the west side of the valley. Virginia’s Southwest Face can be reached in 40min. For Virginia’s Cold Shoulder continue up the gully until you can scramble up and right (60min from parking). An alternative is climbing the first 4 pitches of SW-Face and scrambling up left.

Route Description:

The SW-Face is a moderate traditional climb with a short hard crux. Although, the first pitch is tricky to protect and a little scary. You can stop short of the crux and scramble to the left to reach Virginia's Cold Shoulder. The Camp Wall is the left most wall before you get down into the gully. Virginia's Cold Shoulder offers two excellent sport climbing routes. The Camp Wall features 5.7-5.8 traditional climbing.

There are more climbs down and to the right of the SW-Face.

Descent:

From the very top you can rappel from trees to the ledges below the SW-Face crux and Cold Shoulder. From there either scramble down left or do more rappels to reach the bottom of the cliff.

First Ascent:

SW-Face: unknown

Someone did a nice job to develop Virginia's Cold Shoulder. Don't know who.

Virginia, Camp Wall

Virginia's Cold Shoulder