Beartooth Climbing

The White Wall

Linea Alba, 3 pitches, 5.10d

Toprope, 1 pitch, 5.10a

The White Wall offers excellent sport climbing on white volcanic Andesite. The rock is excellent except for the first few feet. Linea Alba's three pitches are protected by up to 15 bolts per pitch and chain anchors for belays. The anchors of Toprope can be reached while rappeling down.

Maps:

USGS 7.5 min series Black Pyramid Quadrangle

Approach:

From Red Lodge drive Highway 212 south towards Yellowstone Park. You will soon enter Custer National Forrest. Take the second camping exit to the right. It is the last exit before the first switchback up to Beartooth Pass. From the exit follow the road through camp grounds for about 6 miles. The White Wall is above the talus to your right. 1/2 hour scrambling gets you to the start of the climb about 50 feet left of a large dihedral.

Route Description:

Easy climbing leads to the first bolt. From here you can't miss the line. Just follow the bolts the 3 chain anchors. The first pitch (5.10a, 140 ft, 15 bolts) goes over a small overhang. If you don't get the sequence right it might feel harder. The second pitch (5.10b, 120 ft, 12 bolts) has another overlapping flake feature. The crux is comes on the last pitch (5.10d, 90 ft, 9 bolts), an impressive looking overhang with good handholds.

Toprope is a one-pitch climb located to the right of Linea Alba. Its anchors can be reached while rapelling down. The rock on Toprope is not as solid as on Linea Alba. It can be lead on traditional gear but is usually toproped. Continuation above the anchors lead into very loose rock. It is not recommended.

Descent:

Rappel the route which is equipped with 3-bolt-chain anchors.

First Ascent:

Via Alba: Bill Davey, 2005

Toprope: Bill Davey, 2005